BackRoadsWest presents:


Introduction

Here is some general information you should know about the Death Valley area.  If you are using this Guide for the first time, please take a few moments to read this chapter as well as the Instructions before going on to the Points of Interest or other areas of the Guide.  Reading both of these will give you the basics on how our Guides are set up and will tell you how to get the most out of the many features that are included.

bullet Welcome with Travel Tips
bullet A Brief Geology Lesson
bullet General Road Information
bullet Plants and Animals
bullet Getting There
bullet Climate
bullet A Brief History Lesson
bullet Current Weather Conditions
bullet Staying There
bullet Inside the Park
bullet Outside the Park
bullet Contact List

Welcome
Welcome to our Virtual Guide of Death Valley - the land of extremes.  Extreme heat, extreme dryness and extreme beauty.  It is one of North America's most unique regions and one of our personal favorites.  The combinations of geological forces here have created a magnificently rugged and colorful desert landscape that's surrounded by 11,000+ ft. snow-capped peaks making it a place without equal! 

This Virtual Guide will give you all the information you'll need to get a good sense of (or "feel" for) what  Death Valley is really like - from its climate to its history and geology to its plants and animals.  Even the roads and trails will seem familiar thanks to our 3-D Topographic and Interactive View maps!  Go hiking or take a 4WD road with us as we show you pictures and describe what there is to see along the way.  This Guide is just bursting with the information that we've gathered for over 10 years about those out-of-the-way places in Death Valley!  Our sincere wish is that, after using this Guide to familiarize yourself with the Death Valley area, you will have an opportunity to go to Death Valley yourself and experience it first-hand.  There are no pictures or words that can compare to actually "being there"! 

One of the many interesting facts about Death Valley is that the lowest spot in the western hemisphere is located here (Badwater at -282 feet below sea level).   What's even more interesting is that this lowest spot is only about 100 miles (135 road miles) from the highest spot in the contiguous 48 states (Mt. Whitney at 14,495 feet).  Another fact about Death Valley that seems to surprise most people is that the harsh climate here is home to a wide variety of both plants and animals. 

And, as if the breathtaking beauty of the landscape weren't enough, Death Valley offers old mines and their ghost towns for exploring, deep, narrow canyons for hiking, the mysterious moving rocks of Racetrack, a volcanic crater, an extravagant mansion built in the middle of the desert, lots of dirt roads and even a rare fish that has evolved from the freshwater lakes that once covered this area and now survives in the small pools of very salty water on the valley floor.  Add the many fascinating stories that go along with these and the other interesting places in Death Valley and you can see that this area has something for every Back Road explorer! This Guide will show you those places, tell you exactly how to get there and share some of their engaging stories, too.   

To help you get a better idea of what this huge park looks like, click here to see an aerial picture of Death Valley taken from 25,000 feet looking north while over the Fort Irwin Army base.  To see that same aerial view with call-outs to help identify the various features of the landscape, click here.

Also, be aware that Death Valley National Park, like all National Parks, requires an entrance fee.  Please check the National Park Service website, www.nps.gov/deva, for the current rates.  As of 2005, the fee was $10 per vehicle.  And be sure to familiarize yourself with the Park's rules and regulations by visiting the website just mentioned or by reading the material given to you when you pay your entrance fee.

Once you have "virtually" been to Death Valley with this Guide and are ready to go there yourself, take advantage, one more time, of our experience and use the tips listed below.  Being well-prepared and well-informed is the best way to have a memorable and stress-free experience.

Travel Tips:

bullet Plan your trip.  The sheer size of the Park makes it important to plan your trip. Death Valley covers 3.3 million acres (twice the size of the state of Delaware) and is the largest national park in the contiguous United States.  Many of the popular places to visit are very remote and, at this time, there are only 3 places to get gas inside the Park; Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells and Scotty's Castle.  Be aware of the distances between the different places you want to see and plan accordingly.
 
bullet Make reservations.  We strongly recommend that you make your campground or hotel reservations as early as you can (see Staying There).  During the peak visitor season, October through March, places to stay inside the Park fill up quickly.
 
bullet Visit the National Park Service website (www.nps.gov/deva).  Find out about any possible closures (roads, campgrounds, etc.), the Park rules and current entrance fees ($10 for 7 days at this time), current Park events and much more. 
 
bullet Remember - this is a desert.  Read about the climate of this region and be prepared.  Many people are not used to the high temperatures or the low humidity found in deserts like Death Valley.  Here are some very important things to remember when traveling in the desert: 
 
bullet Drink water.  Drink a minimum of 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per day - twice that would be even better.  Always keep plenty of drinking water in your car and take extra if you are hiking.
bullet Watch for dehydration.  If you feel dizzy, nauseous or develop a headache, these are the warning signs of dehydration.  Get out of the sun immediately and drink plenty of water.  Wetting your clothing will help to lower your body temperature.  To read more about the dangers of heat exhaustion and heat stroke, click Extreme Heat.
bullet Don't enter mine shafts or tunnels.  Besides the obvious dangers of cave-ins or falling down a shaft, some mines contain pockets of bad air and poisonous gas.
bullet Dress appropriately.  Outdoor activities in the desert require a shirt, sunglasses and a broad-brimmed hat.  On warmer days, we also recommend sunscreen and light colored, loose-fitting clothing.
bullet Be aware of the weather.  Storms and flash floods are possible at any time of year.  Stay out of canyons during rain storms and be prepared to move quickly to higher ground.  If driving at night, watch for water running in washes and across dips in the road.
bullet Read about the dangers of hiking here.  Please read the chapter on Hiking Death Valley before you do any hiking.  There are real dangers that you should be aware of.  Be informed.

These tips are intended to inform you - not scare you.  We want your visit to this spectacular Park to be both safe and enjoyable.

There is always something new to discover at Death Valley National Park.  Even if you visit the same place twice, you will find something that you did not see before.  The landscape is constantly changing and, depending on the season or time of day, you will stop to marvel at something you had not seen the last time.  In the 10+ years that we have been going there, we have never been disappointed.  Each time we go it's like seeing an old familiar friend but, at the same time, we are also struck by it's breathtaking beauty as if we were seeing it for the first time.  We hope that this Guide has captured some of that magic for you! 

Enjoy your journey and Happy Exploring!   

Back to Welcome or  Back to top of page

General Road Information
There are four paved roads that crisscross Death Valley; five if you include the road that leaves Scotty's Castle to the Northeast.  All the other roads into or out of Death Valley are dirt and most of these require a vehicle with high clearance and/or four wheel drive.

Choosing the the most direct paved route can be a little tricky because it will be different depending on where your final destination is within Death Valley.  We have provided several routes (see Getting There below) that start from the major urban areas around the park.  Besides these directions, we recommend you use a good California and/or Nevada map when planning your trip and carry them with you on your trip.  Also, please read our Travel Tips before heading out into the desert! 

In addition to the directions given below, there are other routes available.  Again, depending on where you are coming from and where you want to go in Death Valley, the following information will be helpful in planning your best route.  Use your maps!

bullet California State Highway 190 bisects Death Valley in the middle in an East-West direction and can be used to enter Death Valley from either Las Vegas (to the east) or Lone Pine (to the west).
 
bullet The major North-South paved road through Death Valley runs from Shoshone in the South to Scotty's Castle in the North.  It branches off State Highway 127 in Shoshone as Hwy 178 but the number designation ends when it enters Death Valley National Park.  The paved road continues northward through the Valley's most spectacular scenery and geology.  It runs through Furnace Creek and shares pavement with Hwy 190.  It then branches off 190 near Stovepipe Wells and heads North to Scotty's Castle.
 
bullet From the South, Death Valley can be reached from Interstate 15 and then State Highway 127 via the small desert town of Baker (known as the "Gateway to Death Valley").  Sometimes, however, that route can be longer than going through the other desert town of Trona near the town of Ridgecrest. 
 
bullet From Nevada, there are two roads off of U.S. Highway 95 that you can use to enter Death Valley .  One intersects in downtown Beatty and another 36 miles north of Beatty.  The road north of Beatty goes to Scotty's Castle to intersect with Death Valley's main North-South road.

And one last thing before leaving your driveway; watch your gas gauge!  Once inside the park (and on some stretches along the way), gas stations are very limited.  Be sure to include appropriate refueling in your travel plan!

Back to General Road Information or Back to top of page

Getting There
Choosing the best route to Death Valley will depend on whether you are going to the northern or southern part of the valley.  

From the South and the L.A. area (typically west of Pasadena)
Directions from downtown Los Angeles: 

To the North or Stovepipe Wells:

  • Take Interstate 5 North to State Hwy. 14 North
  • Stay on Hwy. 14 through Palmdale and Mojave
  • 21 miles past Mojave, bear right onto Redrock/Randsburg Road
  • After 13 miles, bear left on Garlock Road. DO NOT go towards Randsburg
  • Turn left onto U.S. Hwy. 395
  • After 3 miles on Hwy. 395, turn right toward the town of Trona on Searles Station Road
  • After 7 miles, turn left onto Trona Road
  • At end of Trona Road, turn right onto State Hwy. 178 and follow it through the town of Trona (the road ends its Hwy. 178 designation shortly before entering Trona).
  • Fuel up in Trona!
  • Continue North through Trona on Trona Wildrose Road for 46 miles until it intersects with Hwy. 190.
  • Turn right on Hwy. 190.  Stovepipe Wells is another 24 miles.

Total distance from downtown L.A. to Stovepipe Wells is 246 miles.
[printer friendly directions]

To the South or Furnace Creek:

  • Follow the same directions as above, but continue past Stovepipe Wells on S.R. 190
  • Continue another 25 miles on S.R. 190 to reach Furnace Creek

Note : if you are coming from the Orange County area, it would be best to follow the directions from Riverside as listed below.

From the South and the Riverside or San Diego area (or anywhere else in Southeastern California)
Directions from near the Cajon Pass (north of San Bernardino):

To the North or Stovepipe Wells:

  • Take Interstate 15 North through the Cajon Pass
  • Take the U.S. Hwy. 395 turnoff North to Bishop (just past Cajon Summit)
  • Stay on U.S. Hwy. 395 for 69 miles until just past the small town of Red Mountain, turn right onto Trona Road
  • Stay on Trona Road for 23 miles, then turn right on State Hwy. 178.
  • Follow Hwy. 178 through the town of Trona (the road ends its Hwy. 178 designation shortly before entering Trona).
  • Fuel up in Trona!
  • Continue North through Trona on Trona Wildrose Road for 46 miles until it intersects with Hwy. 190.
  • Turn right on Hwy. 190.  Stovepipe Wells is another 24 miles.

Total distance from the junction of the I-15 and I-215 in Cajon Pass to Stovepipe Wells via Trona is 192 miles.
[printer friendly directions]

To the South or Furnace Creek: 

  • Take Interstate 15 North through the Cajon Pass for 121 miles until the town of Baker
  • Take State Hwy. 127 North to Death Valley
  • Continue on Hwy. 127 for 57 miles to the town of Shoshone or, you can take a dirt road into Southern Death Valley.  Look for the dirt road on the left, 30 miles from Baker.
  • 2 miles past Shoshone, turn left onto State Hwy.127.  This will take you over Jubilee Pass into the Southern Death Valley on pavement.  Note that the road loses its Hwy. 127 designation after entering the National Park
  • From Shoshone on pavement, Furnace Creek is another 71 miles.

Total distance from the junction of the I-15 and I-215 in Cajon Pass to Furnace Creek via Baker is 239 miles.
[printer friendly directions]

From the East or Las Vegas: 

To the South or Furnace Creek:

  • From the junction of Interstate 15 and Tropicana Avenue in Las Vegas, go south on I-15
  • After approx. 2 miles, exit I-15 onto State Route 160 and head toward Pahrump and Death Valley
  • Stay on S.R. 160 for 66 miles through Pahrump.  Check your fuel level - you may want to fuel up in Pahrump
  • 14 miles past Pahrump and the intersection with State Hwy 372, turn left toward Ash Meadows.
  • You will enter the small town of Death Valley Junction.  Turn right onto State Hwy. 127, then turn left onto State Hwy. 190 toward Death Valley.  Furnace Creek is another 30 miles.

Total distance from Las Vegas to Furnace Creek via Pahrump is 121 miles.

To the North or Stovepipe Wells:

  • From the junction of Interstate 15 and U.S. Hwy. 95, go north on Hwy. 95
  • Continue on Hwy. 95 for 116 miles to Beatty
  • In the center of Beatty, turn left on State Hwy. 374 to Death Valley
  • After 20 miles and going over Daylight Pass, make sure to bear right toward Stovepipe Wells and not Furnace Creek
  • At the bottom of the hill, turn left at the stop sign, then turn right onto State Hwy. 190 to Stovepipe Wells
  • Stovepipe Wells is 9 miles.

Total distance from Las Vegas to Stovepipe Wells via Beatty is 149 miles.
[printer friendly directions]

Back to Getting There or Back to top of page

Staying There
Like most National Parks, Death Valley offers two different ways to stay overnight - in a campground or in a hotel.  The facilities in and around the park are limited so we recommend that you plan and reserve your overnight stay as far in advance as possible.  Another important factor to keep in mind when making your overnight

An old advertisement for Stovepipe Wells that appeared in a 1930s issue of Desert Magazine.

arrangements is the enormous size of the Park.  Death Valley is 3.3 million acres and is the largest national park in the contiguous United States!  Depending on what attractions you choose to see, you could be driving considerable distances.  We recommend that you choose your hotel or campground as closely as you can to the section of the Park that you will be exploring.  This will save you unnecessary driving time and leave more time to do the fun stuff!

There are only three settlements within the Park and all are very small.  The two most popular are Stovepipe Wells and Furnace Creek.  Stovepipe Wells is the smaller of the two and consists of a rustic hotel and restaurant, a gas station and a campground.  Don't blink while driving through or you could miss it!  The Furnace Creek area is larger and has a hotel, a world-class Inn and golf course, an airport, three campgrounds and the main Visitor's Center for the Park.  Panamint Springs is the third and least popular settlement.  It's about the same size as Stovepipe Wells with an even smaller hotel, a restaurant and a gas station.  It's location on the western edge of the Park makes it far from the majority of the popular attractions.   [see overview map]

For the hotels and campgrounds within the park itself, the National Park Service website for Death Valley (www.nps.gov/deva) is the best source for current information (reservation phone numbers, camping fees, possible closures, etc.).  The campground descriptions they give are very basic and the hotel descriptions are even less informative unless you go to the websites provided.  For our description of the hotels and restaurants and a map of the campgrounds, click Inside the Park

For towns that offer hotels and campgrounds outside the park, click Outside the Park.

Be sure to see our Contact List, also, for a more complete listing of phone numbers, services and website addresses for the businesses and other informational agencies in the Death Valley area.

Inside the Park:

   Hotels

Go to the National Park Service website (www.nps.gov/deva) and click on "lodging" for reservation phone numbers, websites, etc and see our Contact List.

bullet Stovepipe Wells -  Stovepipe Wells was the tent city "resort" that brought the first tourists to Death Valley via the old Mt. Whitney toll road.  Today's Stovepipe Wells offers an average priced hotel of average quality and an above average restaurant with a bar.  There is in-room plumbing but the water is not drinkable.  You must go outside to designated faucets for drinking water.  Across the street from the hotel and restaurant is one of the few gas stations in Death Valley and a convenience store.  Behind the store is the campground.
 
bullet The Furnace Creek Ranch and Inn - This is the most visited area within the Park because many of the most popular sights are a short distance from here along with the Visitors Center and one of the few gas stations inside the Park. 
 
bullet Furnace Creek Ranch is a moderately priced hotel with many nice rooms, a general store, a small museum, a café and a bar/restaurant.  We haven't tried the restaurant but the café was good.  The general store has lots of souvenirs as well as snacks and is a quick place to get a cup of coffee "to-go".  And, if you enjoy history, the little museum is interesting, too. 
bullet Furnace Creek Inn is a Four-Star Resort with a world class golf course, an airport, beautifully kept grounds and a very nice, upscale restaurant and bar.  You usually need reservations for the restaurant and there is a dress code but both the food and service are excellent (we celebrate our anniversary there every year). Even if you don't stay there, it is worth the time to take a look around and/or enjoy a drink outside on the patio and take in the outstanding view of the valley floor and the Panamint Mountains (especially at sunset). The Inn is proudly owned and operated by the Borax Corporation.
 
bullet Panamint Springs Resort is similar to Stovepipe Wells in many ways.  There is a hotel with 15 rooms, campground, a small restaurant and a gas station.  The facilities are located on the west side of the Park in Panamint Valley along S.R. 190 and are privately owned.  Click here to see visit their website for updated information.

    Campgrounds

For camping information, we refer you to the National Park Service website (www.nps.gov/deva - click "camping").  We do this for two reasons:  1) their website will have the most up-to-date phone numbers, closures, fees, etc. and 2) we are not campers and so, unlike the hotels, cannot provide first-hand knowledge of the camping facilities.  We can, however, tell you that Panamint Springs offers camping (and is not on their list) and show you where the campgrounds are located.  Click map and look for this symbol .

See Contact List, Back to Staying There or Back to top of page

Outside the Park:

There are several towns outside of the Park that offer hotels and camping, too.  Keep in mind, however, that they are "outside the Park" and the Park covers a very large area.  Look at a map before making your reservations and know the distances you'll need to travel to get to your destinations inside the Park.  At the northern end of the map are Beatty and  Lone Pine and at the southern end are Death Valley Junction, Tecopa and Shoshone and Pahrump.  All locations are located in California except Beatty and Pahrump which are in Nevada. 

We have included some contact information (phone numbers, websites, etc.) as we know it but recommend that you use your internet search engines to get the most current and accurate information. 

bullet Beatty, Nevada is east of Death Valley and has several hotels with casinos, gas stations, grocery and supply stores and a museum.  Beatty is a good alternative if you want to stay in a hotel and cannot get a room inside the Park.  The rooms and restaurant at the Stagecoach Hotel and Casino are both nice and reasonably priced.  The other hotels in town have casinos, too, and each has a restaurant.  Of all the towns close to but outside the Park, Beatty has the most facilities to choose from.  See the Contact List for details.
 
bullet Death Valley Junction area has two hotels.  One is in the small town itself called the Amargosa Hotel and the other is a casino/hotel (built in 2001) six miles north of Death Valley Junction on S.R. 127 just over the Nevada state line.  See the Contact List for more details.
 
bullet Lone Pine is a great town to visit if your trip to Death Valley includes some exploring of the Sierra Nevada's or the Owens Valley area.  Lone Pine sits right on the scenic U.S. 395 and hasn't grown much over the years so still has much of its small town charm.  There are plenty of facilities to choose from here but it's 70-80 miles away from Death Valley.  See the Contact List for more details.
 
bullet Pahrump, Nevada is located south-east of Death Valley and has experienced quite a growth spurt over the past 10 years.  There are many hotels, gas stations and other supplies available but, like Lone Pine, it's 70-80 miles away from Death Valley.  See the Contact List for more details.  See the Contact List for details.
 
bullet The Tecopa and Shoshone area have a few hotels also.  Shoshone has a small hotel, two cafés, a gas station and convenience store and a small but interesting museum.  There's a great B&B (bed and breakfast) at China Ranch where we stay frequently and a hotel at Tecopa Hot Springs that is not always open.  See the Tecopa chapter for further details.  Try www.395.com and click on "general Info" for both Tecopa and Shoshone and see our Contact List for more details.
 

See Contact List, Back to Staying There or Back to top of page

A Brief History Lesson
Death Valley is brimming with history!  The stories of how the valley got it's name and the mining boom that followed are part of the reason for the Park's popularity.  This "Wild West" mining history has created many of the Park's attractions and, because we love old mines and ghost towns almost as much as geology, this Guide takes you to many of the places where Death Valley history was made!  Knowing the story behind a particular location makes it that much more interesting as you stand there and try to imagine how it was "back then".  But before we talk about that, let's back up in time a little further than just 200 years ago.     

 It is difficult to imagine that the arid Death Valley of today was once covered in glaciers during the last ice age and that, as those glaciers retreated, they left behind a lake-filled basin with abundant water and life.  The ancestors of the modern Shoshone and Paiute American Indians have lived in this area for almost 10,000 years.   The first white people to enter the valley were a group of pioneers heading for the California gold fields. 

The year was 1849 and these pioneers, who later became known as the Jayhawkers, were searching for a short-cut through the Sierra Nevada mountains.  The man who had agreed to be their guide across this short-cut deserted them a few weeks into their journey and they were left to find their own way.  Water was their main concern and their lives were spared many times by winter storms.  They endured severe hardships before they finally escaped the desert many months later.  Their experience was how the valley got it's name. 

As they made their way through Death Valley, one of the pioneers  needed a new sight for his gun and fashioned one out of a rock he picked up along the way.  This rock was later found to be silver!  The mining rush was on and so was the most exciting part of Death Valley's history!  The search for the Lost Gunsight Lode along with hopes of finding gold, copper and lead brought prospectors pouring into the area.  Soon, towns like Panamint City, Ballarat, Chloride City, Rhyolite and Skidoo were popping up all over the valley.  Pieces of many of these ghost towns can still be seen today and are popular attractions of the Park. 

Contrary to the popular mining folklore and myth, the most profitable ore in Death Valley wasn't gold, silver, copper or lead.  It was borax.  These mines made the most money and were in business longer than any others.  Discovered in 1873, borax was first successfully exploited by W. T. Coleman.  He built the Harmony Borax Works and created the famous 20-mule-team wagons that hauled the processed mineral 165 miles across the desert to the railroad at Mojave. 

Although not the most profitable, there were several financial success stories from ore mining.  The Keane Wonder Mine, the Bullfrog Mine near Rhyolite and the Skidoo Mine Company were some of the biggest.  Later, in the mid 1900's, talc was mined in southern Death Valley and various lead mines started in the Racetrack region.  Much of the mining came to a halt with the onset of World War II. 

The 1920's brought the first tourist facilities in Death Valley.  These tent houses were built at the site of today's Stovepipe Wells.  Construction of Scotty's Castle, the extravagant mansion that was to be the winter vacation residence of Albert Johnson and was named after his flamboyant friend, Death Valley Scotty, began in 1924.  In 1927, the crew quarters of a borax company were converted to become the Furnace Creek Ranch and the Furnace Creek Inn was built.  Death Valley quickly became a popular winter destination and, on February 11,1933, President Herbert Hoover signed a proclamation making almost 3000 square miles a national monument.  On October 31,1994, as a result of the Desert Protection Act, about 1.3 million acres were added to Death Valley and the monument became a national park.  Today, the park encompasses 3,336,000 acres and is the largest national park in the contiguous United States.  

For a more information about Death Valley's history, click here.

Back to A Brief History Lesson or Back to top of page

A Brief Geology Lesson
Death Valley's geology is some of the most beautiful and unique in the world and this Virtual Guide will take you to see it!  You will be treated to an unobstructed view of Nature's dramatic, earth-shaping forces.  Because of the lack of vegetation (and even soil in some places), you can see the huge alluvial fans and erosion of the mountain ranges, the earthquake faults and volcanic craters, the fracturing and twisting of the five to five hundred million-year-old sedimentary layers, the rare geological formation called "Turtlebacks", the power of slow moving glaciers from millions of years ago and the rock-sculpting power of the wind and the extreme heat.  The magnificent colors, variety of geological effects and sheer size of some of the formations are awe-inspiring and can take your breath away! 

The earliest rocks date back to the Precambrian Era and, during the Paleozoic Era (perhaps 300-500 million years ago), seas covered the area.  Volcanic activity and faulting uplifted the mountains and dropped the valley floor.  And these geologic forces continue their changes today.  The wind and rain constantly chip away at the mighty mountains and the earthquake faults shift and move.  Flash floods still carve out the canyons and create the huge alluvial fans.  Then the wind begins its attack on the alluvium - breaking it down into smaller and smaller pieces until it is light enough to fly away and be deposited onto the sand dunes.

Here are just some of the extraordinary places we'll show you:  Echo Canyon with it's Eye of the Needle arch, the eroding remnants of an ancient lake bed known as Twenty-Mule Team Canyon where you can actually hear the hills expand and contract as the temperatures change, Ubehebe Crater with its orange tint from the oxidizing ores that's nearly ½ mile wide and 500 feet deep, Devil's Golf Course with its wind-sculpted, 1000 feet deep layers of alternating salt and gravel that was deposited by the evaporation of several ancient lakes and now covers 200 square miles, the unusually-shaped old basalt of Mushroom Rock that's been eroded by water, temperature extremes and wind-blown sand and salt and Racetrack Playa where the rocks move across the 2 ½-mile-long, dry-mud-flat remains of an old lake leaving long tracks behind them.  These are just a few of the wonders in store for you inside this Virtual Guide of Death Valley.

Back to A Brief Geology Lesson or Back to top of page

Plants and Animals
Despite it's extreme temperatures, Death Valley is home to more than 1000 kinds of plants (21 of which are found nowhere else in the world) and numerous species of reptiles, birds and mammals.  The National Park Service website (www.nps.gov/deva) has good, detailed lists of the plants and animals of the area but, at this time, no pictures.  At their website, click "Nature & Science" under the Park Resources heading or, for a more detailed listing, click the blue "In Depth" button, then click "Plants and Animals".  As we take pictures of and identify the plants and animals of Death Valley, they will be added as updates under "What's New" at our website (www.backroadswest.com).        

Plants:  The wide range of varieties found here is due to several factors.  One is the great adaptability of the desert plants to the soil and climate.  Another is the range of natural environments found within the Park.  From the dry, alkali flats of the valley floor to the sub-alpine regions at the highest Panamint Mountain summits, Death Valley's plants are survivors.  Ironically, Death Valley is home to more varieties of marsh grass than cactus.  And, when winter rainfall and spring temperatures are just right, the valley will put on a spectacular wildflower display.

Some of the plants you will find here are:  the tree-sized yuccas of Lee Flat, the rare Rocklady Maurandya and Rock Mimulus of Titus Canyon, the strange field of arrowweed hummocks at Devil's Cornfield and the evening primrose, dunegrass and locoweed of the Eureka Dunes.  For a list of the types of cactus (barrel, pincushion, prickly pear, cholla etc.) and succulents found in Death Valley, visit the National Park Service website (see instructions above).

Animals:  The most "famous" animal resident of Death Valley is the endangered Devil's Hole pupfish (Cyprinodon diabolis).  This 2.5 centimeter fish lives in the extremely salty waters of the valley floor and is a survivor from the era when a large freshwater lake once covered this area as recently as 2000 years ago.  Stop by the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail while in the Park to read this little fish's story and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of one.  The other well-known animal found in the park is the rarely-seen bighorn sheep.  It lives in the mountain areas and, besides being well camouflaged, is rather shy of people. 

For all animals here, obtaining moisture is their greatest challenge and many have ingenious ways of getting it.  Most wildlife activity is concentrated around the springs and many animals are strictly nocturnal.  For a checklist of the amphibians, bats, birds, fishes, mammals and reptiles found in Death Valley, visit the National Park Service website (see instructions above).       

Unfortunately, we are not able to recommend any good books about the plants and animals of Death Valley at this time because we are still trying to find them.  Check What's New on our website from time to time for any updates to this information.

Back to Plants and Animals or Back to top of page

Climate
Death Valley is known for it's extreme heat but each season has something different to offer and there is plenty to see and do at any time of the year.  In winter, the lower elevations are mild during the day but temperatures drop to below 40°F at night.  The higher elevations are just like any other mountains in winter with snow and ice.   Winter days are short and, in December, the sun sets at around 4 p.m. so take a flashlight if you plan a long trip.  In summer, while the valley is sizzling under triple digit heat during the day, the higher elevations (above 4,000 or 5,000 feet) are quite pleasant. Summer days are long and hot and temperatures commonly do not dip below 100°F for many days in a row.

Death Valley's reputation for summer heat is justified.  On July 10, 1913, Furnace Creek recorded an official reading of 134°F (56°C) in the shade five feet above the ground!  This makes Death Valley the #2 spot for the highest air temperature recorded on Earth.  The record-holder for the #1 spot is Libya at 136°F (57°C), however, the argument is made that because the temperature at Badwater is generally 4°F (2.5°C) higher than at Furnace Creek, the temperature on that day in 1913 was probably around 138°F and would give Death Valley the record.  But, regardless of who holds the record, there is no question that Death Valley is one of the hottest places in the world.  In the past, most of the businesses in Death Valley would close their doors in the summer simply because visitors would stop coming.  That has changed, however, due to the increase of visiting Europeans who apparently enjoy the extreme heat.  Now, businesses are open year-round and, if you don't mind the heat, hotel rates are cheaper and campsites are more available.     

The most popular months for visiting Death Valley are October through May with October and March being the most ideal months.  These two months typically offer the most comfortable temperatures and longer days.  March probably has a slight edge over October because the mountains will still have snow and the desert blooming season is at its peak.  Of course, because this is the most popular time of year for the park, prices for hotel rooms will be at a premium and both the campsites and hotels will fill up quickly so plan ahead and make reservations whenever possible.  Our favorite months to be in Death Valley are December and February.

Always remember that you are in a place where weather conditions can change rapidly.  Extreme heat, flash floods, strong winds with blowing sand and freezing temperatures are all normal events within the different climates and seasons.  The average annual rainfall on the valley floor is only 1.86 inches (4.72 cm).  This is due mainly to the Sierra Nevada mountain range to the west which captures most of the moisture coming in from the Pacific Ocean.  What little moisture makes it past the Sierra's is captured by the Panamint Range, the Inyo Mountains and the White Mountains.  The "average" rainfall figure, however, does not quite give a true picture of what really happens in Death Valley.  Some years, like 1929 and 1952,  there was zero rainfall and other years, like 1923 and 1983, 4.54 inches (11.53 cm) fell.  The higher elevations receive more rainfall than the valley floor and Telescope Peak gets snow every winter. 

Below is a chart of average temperatures recorded at Furnace Creek:

  Average Temperatures

Month

Maximum Minimum
January 65°F / 18°C 39°F / 4°C
February 72°F / 22°C 46°F / 8°C
March 80°F / 27°C 53°F / 12°C
April 90°F / 32°C 62°F / 17°C
May 99°F / 37°C 71°F / 22°C
June 109°F / 43°C 80°F / 27°C
July 115°F / 46°C 88°F / 31°C
August 113°F / 45°C 85°F / 29°C
September 106°F / 41°C 75°F / 24°C
October 92°F / 33°C 62°F / 16°C
November 76°F / 24°C 48°F / 9°C
December 65°F / 19°C 39°F / 4°C

The record low temperature of 15°F (-9°C) was recorded in January of 1913 and, ironically, the record high temperature of 134°F (56°C) was recorded 6 months later in July of 1913. 

For more information about hiking in this desert environment, click Hiking Death Valley

Back to Climate or Back to top of page

Current Weather Conditions:
The National Park Service offers a daily local "Morning Report" (Adobe Acrobat Reader required) that provides information on current weather and road conditions and weather statistics.

Death Valley:
(Furnace Creek)
Beatty, Nevada:
(20 miles north of Death Valley)

 

 

Ridgecrest, Calif.:
(40 miles southwest of Death Valley)
Barstow, Calif.:
(80 miles south of Death Valley)

 

 

Back to top of page or Home


June 2005 Version
 Copyright © 2005, BackRoadsWest.com