Juneau Icefield
Our back roads exploration this time takes us to where there are no roads as we visit the massive icefield and many glaciers behind Alaska’s capital city of Juneau. Join us as we take to the air via helicopter to not only see this magnificent sea of ice but to also walk on it.
Most people who visit Juneau step off a cruise ship and we were no different. We’ve been to Juneau three times and all were via a cruise ship. There are many interesting ways to spend your day when the ship stops here. Juneau is the capital of Alaska and there are several museums where you can explore this state’s colorful history. That’s exactly what we did one time when we had typical Alaskan weather – grey and rainy. But the other two times, the weather was good enough for flying… so we did.
Cruise ship companies offer plenty of shore excursions to fit the various interests of their passengers. One of them is a trip to nearby Mendenhall Glacier where you can see a small piece of it from the Visitor Center. But distances can be deceiving in Alaska and the glacier is actually quite a distance away. Hiking to it is not a very practical option simply because it would take too long and ships don’t stay in port very long. And, even if you were to get to the tip of the glacier, you’re only seeing a small fraction of one percent of the ice that lies beyond Juneau.
If you really want to get up-close and personal and experience a glacier, the best way is to get out onto one. Walk on it or just stand there and try to take it all in. There are a few ways to do this but some require more time than what a typical cruise ship stay will allow. The most direct way to get to a glacier is to take one of the many helicopter tours offered. Some tours fly over the glaciers which will give you some sense of their immense size and make a lasting impression. But other tours are longer and include one or two landings on the glaciers. This is the best tour to fully appreciate their majesty and grandeur.
Taking a helicopter ride may seem like an expensive option but it really is the best way to get the most bang-for-your-buck and is an efficient use of your limited time here. After all, how many times will you have the chance to step onto a glacier?
Pictures
Below are some pictures of what you will see along the way.
About Glaciers
Before we explain more about helicopter tours, let us elaborate a little more about what a glacier is. Glaciers are the result of snowfall from a given year that hasn’t melted and, when the next winter comes, more snow dumps onto the previous year’s accumulation. As each successive year’s snowfall creates a new layer on top of the older layers, weight and pressure causes the older snow layers to morph into ice with a new crystalline structure. This process takes a very long time, sometimes thousands of years, and is how glacial ice is created.
Over time, this glacial ice builds up and is pulled slowly downhill by gravity. The ice slides down into canyons where it meets more glacial ice and becomes an even stronger force. Glaciers are like massive, powerful conveyor belts. As they slide and scrape their way over whatever type of rock they encounter, their sheer weight cuts its own path and sometimes will carry pieces of this rock with them on their journey. The force of a glacier is unstoppable and is one of the most powerful erosional forces on earth.
Glaciers move very slowly – sometimes an inch or two a day. When the glacial ice finally gets to the end, or toe, of the glacier, it simply breaks off and melts. Often, the toe of a glacier is located at a body of water, like the ocean, and then this breaking off of ice is called “calving”. If you’re lucky enough to witness the calving of a glacier, it’s quite spectacular!
Many glaciers in Alaska (and other places in the world) are solitary and form a single “river” of ice. The glaciers behind Juneau, however, are different. Most of the larger glaciers come from the enormous Juneau Icefield. This icefield is more than just a glacier; it is a huge accumulation of glacial ice. It is about 50 miles long by 20 miles wide – all solid, white ice. In some places, the ice is 4,500 feet thick.
Glaciers are responsible for shaping many canyons and valleys all over the world. One of the most famous glacial-cut valleys is Yosemite Valley in California. Here, massive granite blocks were sheared off by glacial ice tens of thousands of years ago. In Juneau and throughout Alaska, you can see that same landscape-making effect happening right now with your own eyes. And one of the best places to see it is in the mountains behind Juneau.
Helicopter Tours
Now that you know a little more about glaciers and how fascinating they are, let’s get back to the subject of touring them. As mentioned earlier, there are plenty of choices as to how you spend your day in Juneau but, when anyone asks us for a recommendation, we tell them to take the “pilot’s choice” helicopter tour. It’s one of the more expensive excursions but, as the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. And you don’t have to use the tours that the cruise ship offers. There are plenty of other tour companies to choose from but be sure that they know when your ship is leaving port. You don’t want to miss your boat!
A pilot’s choice tour allows the pilot to choose one or two landing places to set down. Each time you’ll be able to get out and walk around a bit to get the full experience. You can also ask as many questions as you like. The pilots are very knowledgeable and tell you what you’re seeing as you fly along.
Weather conditions for flying can change hourly in Alaska and conditions on the glaciers change frequently, too, effecting potential landing spots. These pilots are very familiar with the weather here so, if they see bad weather developing somewhere that will limit your views of the glaciers below, they can change their flight path to areas that give you the optimal views of the spectacular landscape below. They also know the icefield very well. This means that they are able to make quick decisions on whether to fly to one area or another.
A simple flyover of the glaciers takes about half an hour but the pilot’s choice tour usually takes about an hour or more (which is part of the reason for the higher price). Along with the landings, the pilot’s tour takes you over many of the icefield’s largest glaciers, such as Mendenhall and Taku. An added bonus is that the flight also gives you stunning views of the rugged mountain scenery leading up to the icefield. All of these factors are why we recommend the pilot’s choice helicopter tour for your day in Juneau. It isn’t until you’re up in the air that you can fully appreciate the vastness of this force of nature.
Trip Map
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